Plum Smoke Makeup Tutorial
Intermediate25 min

Plum Smoke Makeup Tutorial

Last updated:

Plum smoke is the smokey eye's romantic cousin. Instead of harsh black, deep plum and berry tones create a sultry, mysterious look that's universally flattering — especially on brown and green eyes, where the purple tones make the iris pop. This look works year-round but feels particularly right in autumn and winter. The technique is the same as a classic smokey eye; you're just swapping the color palette for something warmer and more dimensional.

Step-by-step

  1. 1

    Prime and set lids

    Step 1 of 7

    Apply eyeshadow primer across the entire lid up to the brow bone. Set with a light, matte nude shade. This creates a smooth base that prevents the deep plum pigments from creasing or mudding together.

    Tip: Use a shade that matches your skin tone — the primer should disappear, not add color.

  2. 2

    Warm transition shade

    Step 2 of 7

    Blend a warm mauve or dusty rose shade through the crease using a fluffy blending brush. Use windshield-wiper motions. This transition shade bridges your skin tone and the deep plum, preventing a harsh line.

  3. 3

    Build plum in the crease and outer V

    Step 3 of 7

    Using a smaller, denser brush, apply a deep matte plum to the outer V and outer half of the crease. Build in layers — two thin passes are better than one heavy application. Blend the edge into the transition shade so there's no visible line.

    Tip: Tap off excess from the brush before applying. Deep plum shades can deposit too much pigment in one swipe.

  4. 4

    Shimmer lid

    Step 4 of 7

    Pat a plum or berry shimmer shade onto the center of the lid using a flat shader brush or your fingertip. Press the color on rather than swiping to maximize metallic payoff. The shimmer creates contrast against the matte crease and adds dimension.

  5. 5

    Deepen outer corner

    Step 5 of 7

    Add a touch of dark burgundy or deep eggplant to the very outer corner, right at the lash line. Blend upward and outward in a V shape. This adds depth and smoke without the entire look going too dark.

  6. 6

    Lower lash line and inner corner

    Step 6 of 7

    Sweep the plum transition shade along the lower lash line with a pencil brush. Add a light champagne or pink shimmer to the inner corner for brightness. Line the upper waterline with a dark purple or brown pencil.

  7. 7

    Mascara and final blend

    Step 7 of 7Almost done!

    Apply two coats of volumizing mascara. Use a clean fluffy brush to do a final blend through the crease, softening any remaining edges. The finished look should feel like a gradient from light inner corner through plum center to deep outer V.

Video tutorial

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Pro tips

  • Plum and berry shades complement brown and green eyes especially well — the contrast makes the iris pop.
  • For hooded eyes, place the deepest plum shade above your natural crease so the color is visible when your eyes are open.
  • Keep lips neutral or berry-toned. A bold red lip with plum eyes competes; a mauve or berry lip complements.

Skin type notes

Oily lids: use a long-wear primer and set the base shade with powder before building color. Mature skin: stick with matte plum and skip glitter; satin shimmers are fine. The key is blending well so the deep colors don't settle into lines.

Products used

Anastasia Beverly Hills
Modern Renaissance Palette

Anastasia Beverly Hills

$45

Essence
Lash Princess Mascara

Essence

$5

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