Faux Piercing Makeup
By Viktoria @vioda.makeup · Published · Updated
A drawn-on piercing is a small exercise in painting metal, and it comes down to three marks in the right order: a dark anchor where the jewellery meets the skin, a light dome for the metal itself, and one hard specular dot where the light hits. Get the light direction consistent with the rest of your face and it reads as real in photos. Get it wrong and it reads as a dot of eyeliner, which is the usual failure.
Watch the tutorial
Makeup experiment to try 🩶🪩 FAUX PIERCING
Short · 0:50 · Viktoria @vioda.makeup
Painting a convincing piercing with liner and highlight — the shadow, the metal, and the one detail that sells it.
Step-by-step
- 1
Decide the placement and the light
Step 1 of 7Pick the spot — nostril, septum, lip, eyebrow — and note where the light in the room is coming from. Every mark that follows depends on that direction being consistent with the shadows already on your face.
Tip: Set up facing your light source before you start. Moving halfway through is what produces a piercing lit from a different direction than the nose it's on.
- 2
Set the skin
Step 2 of 7Powder the area so it's matte and slightly grippy. Liner drags and skips on bare or dewy skin, and the marks here are small enough that a skip ruins them.
- 3
Anchor with a shadow
Step 3 of 7A small crescent of dark brown or grey liner on the side away from the light, right where the jewellery would meet the skin. This is the contact shadow, and it's what makes the stud sit on the face instead of floating on top of it.
- 4
Build the metal
Step 4 of 7A small dome of silver or white liner just inside the shadow, leaving the darkest edge visible. Keep it smaller than you think — real studs are tiny, and an oversized dome is the fastest way to look painted on.
- 5
Add the specular highlight
Step 5 of 7One hard, tiny dot of pure white at the point facing the light, with a fine brush. This single mark does most of the work — it's the reflection that tells the eye it's looking at something metallic rather than a coloured circle.
Tip: Sharp edges on this dot, never blended. Blending it turns the metal back into paint.
- 6
Soften the base shadow outward
Step 6 of 7Feather the outer edge of the contact shadow very slightly into the skin, leaving the inner edge crisp. Real cast shadows are soft at their outer edge and hard where the object touches.
- 7
Seal it
Step 7 of 7Almost done!A dot of clear gloss or setting spray over the metal only. The gloss adds a genuine wet reflection on top of the painted one, which holds up under a camera flash better than paint alone.
Pro tips
- Smaller than feels right. Almost every failed faux piercing is simply too big — real jewellery is a few millimetres across.
- The shadow before the metal, always. Painting the silver first and adding a shadow afterwards never sits right, because the shadow ends up on top of the highlight rather than under it.
- Practise on the back of your hand first. Three marks in the correct order takes a couple of attempts, and the hand costs nothing to wipe off.
Skin type notes
Works on every skin tone, but the contact shadow should be a deeper version of your own skin's shadow tone rather than a flat black — grey-brown on fair skin, a deep warm brown on medium, and a rich espresso on deep skin. Flat black reads as a hole on any complexion.
You might also like
FAQ
Now that you've mastered Faux Piercing Makeup, try one of these next.
Or find dupes for the products in this look to get the same result for less.