How to Choose the Right Lipstick for Your Skin Tone

By Viktoria @vioda.makeup · · Updated April 10, 2026

Shade chart advice is vague. Here's how to actually pick a lipstick that looks right on you, based on undertone and contrast level.

A practical guide to picking lipstick shades that flatter your undertone — with tested color recommendations for cool, warm, and neutral skin.

Identify Your Undertone First

Before you pick a lipstick, figure out your undertone. It's the one thing that determines whether a shade looks harmonious or slightly off. Cool undertones have pink, red, or blue beneath the skin. Warm undertones have yellow, gold, or peach. Neutral undertones are a balanced mix.

The fastest test: look at the veins on the inside of your wrist in natural light. Blue or purple veins = cool. Green = warm. A mix of both = neutral. Another reliable check: does your skin look better in silver or gold jewelry? Silver = cool, gold = warm, both = neutral.

Cool Undertones: Go Blue-Based

Cool skin tones look best in lipsticks with a blue or pink base. The classics: true reds with blue undertones (think MAC Ruby Woo, Rare Beauty Believe), berries, plums, fuchsias, mauves, and cool pinks. Avoid anything described as 'brick,' 'rust,' 'terracotta,' or 'warm nude' — these will make cool skin look tired and sallow.

For nude shades on cool undertones, look for pink-nudes or rose-nudes. Warm 'your-lips-but-better' shades sold as universal nudes often read muddy on cool skin.

Warm Undertones: Go Orange-Based

Warm skin tones are flattered by oranges, corals, warm reds (tomato, brick), terracotta, peach, and brown-based nudes. Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Original, MAC Chili, and NARS Dolce Vita are the classic warm-toned picks that dominate this category.

Avoid cool blue-reds and icy pinks — they tend to clash against warm undertones and make teeth look yellow. If you want a red, pick one with a slight orange or brown tilt.

Neutral Undertones: Almost Anything Works

Neutral undertones are the easiest — most shades will look good, which is both the blessing and the curse. The way to narrow down is by contrast level (see the next section). Neutral undertones can wear blue-reds, orange-reds, and everything in between. The shades that look best are usually slightly dusty or muted versions — true neon colors can feel off-balance.

Consider Your Contrast Level

Contrast level is how much difference there is between your skin, hair, and features. High contrast (pale skin with dark hair, or deep skin with light hair) can carry saturated, bold shades without looking washed out. Low contrast (pale skin with blonde hair, medium skin with similar-tone hair) looks best in softer, more diffused shades — dusty pinks, soft corals, muted berries.

A high-contrast face in a soft nude can look washed out. A low-contrast face in a bold cherry red can look like the lipstick is wearing you. Match the intensity of the shade to the intensity of your natural coloring.

Tested Universal Shades

A few shades genuinely flatter almost everyone because they're carefully balanced between warm and cool: Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Medium (rose-nude), NARS Dolce Vita (dusty berry), MAC Velvet Teddy (beige-nude on medium skin), Rare Beauty Kind (neutral rose). These are a safe place to start if you're not sure of your undertone.

That said, test in natural light before committing. Store lighting is notoriously flattering or harsh, and a shade that looks perfect at Sephora can read totally different outside.

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Viktoria @vioda.makeup

Makeup artist and content creator sharing honest dupe reviews, tutorials, and product comparisons. Every recommendation is tested in real conditions.

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